ATM Metal Cutting Blades

[astrojoe@erols.com]

The major difference between a wood blade and a non ferrous blade is the
rake of the teeth. A negative rake is recommended. However, I have used
a wood blade with a slightly positive rake ( about 2 degrees ) and have
had success. The carbide teeth life will still drop by about half even
if you use a dry or wet teflon lubricant. If no lubricant, the best
blade will last only about 1/10 of it's normal cutting life before it
requires sharpening. I use the Amana brand blades in both my DeWalt 12"
compound mitre saw and my 10" table saw. The blade that comes with the
Dewalt when first purchased is not to be used for cutting aluminum. The
rake is too positive and the carbide is of a much lesser grade. The
construction of the blade makes it usable for wood cutting only. It is a
low end blade. By contrast, the Amana replacement blades have 4 times
the duty cycle and are well made, very heavy duty blades worth the high
expense. The 12" blade cost is around $ 95.00 and the 10" around $
75.00. You can re-sharpen both many times. With a shot of Dry teflon
lubricant each time I use the blade, it cuts aluminum without any
problems. JUST GO SLOW and remember, when using a chop saw or mitre saw,
use clamps to hold down the aluminum or you will get a piece of aluminum
launched in your direction. VERY DANGEROUS !!!!! Take heed ! Don't use
your hands as hold down fixtures !!!! Your not cutting wood.

Joe Castoro


Sam Michael wrote:
> 
> Hi Jack.
> 
> I have cut quite a bit of Aluminum on a table saw and with a chop saw using
> carbide blades.
> 
> I do not agree that you can do this (certainly not safely) without a
> lubricant.
> 
> I used to ignore lubricant but have found that AT BEST, the life of the
> blade is reduced by about %10,000.  At worst, the blade grabs the material,
> several teeth are removed, the saw is destroyed and you are lucky not to be
> on your way to the hospital.
> 
> A good cutting grease should always be used or at the VERY least, some bees
> wax.
> 
> In addition, not just any carbide blade is effective or safe on Aluminum.
> Galling can be a problem and a standard wood blade does not have the correct
> orientation for the teeth and is too aggressive.  The teeth on a wood blade
> protrude from the side on alternate teeth.
> 
> The blade should be "hollow ground".  Meaning, the teeth do not protrude
> from the sides (rather only around the circumference of the blade).
> Finally, the MORE teeth the better.  A 40 tooth blade will damage both
> itself and the material it is cutting.  On 12" blade, I like to use a hollow
> ground 100 tooth blade.  80 is fine on 10".
> 
> Lastly, there are simply too many "Aluminums." These alloys vary
> substantially in hardness.  All it takes is one mistake to lost a finger, an
> eye, etc.
> 
> I have tried wood carbide blades in order to save a few bucks.  In the end,
> the savings are not there.  You just chew up blades and eventually you have
> to buy a metal cutting "non ferris" blade anyway.
> 
> Sam.
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-atm@shore.net [mailto:owner-atm@shore.net]On Behalf Of Jack
> > Schmidling
> > Sent: Saturday, September 19, 1998 8:32 PM
> > To: atm-digest@shore.net
> > Subject: ATM Sawing aluminum
> >
> >
> >
> > It may not be obvious but for folks who do not have a band saw,
> > aluminum plate can be cut easily on a table saw with a carbide
> > blade available at any hardware store.
> >
> > Since I discovered this, I only use the band saw for stuff too
> > thick for the table saw blade.  1/2" plate cuts like plywood and
> > you need no lubricant.
> >
> > js
> >
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