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(ATM) Fergy's Mirror 2
Well I found a (slightly ironic) solution to my grinding stand quest:
I was prowling the back room at work viewing every odd thing as a potential
stand, when I found an old bench grinder thrown under a bench, it was on a
stand, sort of like an "I" beam, but "C" in section. I asked around, and was
told I could NOT borrow it, but I could HAVE it...but only if I promised
NEVER to bring it back...such a deal! My friend Jesse Cox says "Don't look
for a thing" (a barrel in this case) "look for a function." Good advice, now
if I could just train the hardware store clerks on this concept!
This thing is cast iron, ugly as sin, hell for stout, and only a few inches
lower than ideal. I fastened it down to a 4x4' square of 3/4" ply, with a
couple of sugar pine 2x4 blocks on edge for spacers. 1' square of 3/4 ply on
top, and I'm in business.
I thought that having the base big enough to stand on would eliminate need
for weight. Wrong! this only works for push direction, ply flexes too much
when "pulling". So I stacked half a bag of sandblast media (OK,OK, "play
sand"), 1' of rail (my "anvil") and a big cast iron vise around the base of
the pier. Perfection!
When the mirror is done, I will use this for MY bench grinder, which is now
taking up valuable area at the end of my workbench. No barrel to dispose of!
(Bob Madden says I should just build a machine, but I am following standard
advice to do at least one mirror by hand first)
It was only 8pm when I finished the stand (stopped at library on way home, to
get Richard Berry's book...out,overdue, dang!) So, by skipping supper, I got
in a couple of hours glass pushing with the #60 grit. Boy, is my tool
wearing fast! No danger of running through, but the ceramic is obviously MUCH
softer than the pyrex. I had to saw some epoxy out of the channels to keep
them open. (I filled them with epoxy, because I was _sure_ they were too deep)
The sag. is developing nicely. The edge is still nearly flat for about 1/4"
in. I first noticed this when it was about 1/2" wide band, so I am assuming
this will come out as the center deepens, and am not too concerned. Somebody
please say something if this sounds like trouble brewing.
I was suprised at how hard it was to use the template..I am familiar with
"looking for daylight" from wood and metal working, but never had a
translucent surface to "eyeball" before. The light coming under the frosted
surface makes it look like daylight _everywhere_ to me. I tried both wet,
and dry,but no improvement. Guess I can go by feel (when it won't "rock"
anymore) , but I sure would feel better knowing just how close I am, how fast
(or even "if") I'm progressing, or by how far I overshot.
I cut my template from shiny Al flashing. I wonder if painting it black
would be an improvement? Anybody know a trick here?
I think I will just build a spherometer and be done with it. I have a good
3/4 travel indicator which aughta be the ticket. I am thinking of having
three pins with rounded points, set on a 1" radius with the indicator in the
center. Is there some problem with this design? (too big/small radius??). I
think I'd want a test indicator (or 1/10 mic) ,a reference flat, and ball
feet if I was doing lenses, but this rig aughta be better than a template for
ballparking RoC on a mirror. I think the ground table on my mill is close
enough to flat for a reference for mirror work, but it also occured to me
that I could gauge the tool, then the mirror, and take half the difference as
my reading. Any reason why not?
All fer today..Clear Skies,
-Kevin