Re: [ATM] Shaping a focuser board to match tube

[Mike Lockwood <melockwo@uiuc.edu>]

Hi,

I use my table saw a lot.  I have a good sharp clean blade, aligned 
precisely to the saw, clean table top, and a nice fence.  If you take 
precautions agains kickback and learn to use the saw properly, table 
saws are quite safe, and tremendously versatile, and they produce a 
straight, smooth cut that doesn't require sanding.  (Yes, this is true 
- it looks like a jointer did it!)

Add a good dado blade and you won't believe the time savings.

BUT, in this case, I think I'd just trace half of the end of the tube 
on a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood and then cut out the curve with a 
jigsaw or router.  Then, from the piece with the curve on it, I'd cut 
two pieces of wood to glue on the side of the focsuer base.  These 
pieces will sit on the tube, and the base doesn't have to touch it. 
That's the easiest way to match the tube.

	Mike Lockwood


Richard wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> Tuesday, October 25, 2005, 1:26:21 AM, you wrote:
> 
> DS> Got a question for y'all...
> DS> I'm going to build and mount a wooden based Crayford
> DS> to a 5.25" metal tube (the son's 4.5" reflector). I
> DS> have a 10" table saw. I was considering clamping
> DS> guides to the table saw at an angle to the blade such
> DS> that passing the focuser base across the blade would
> DS> remove the wood to match the 5.25" tube OD.
> 
> I've seen Norm do coving in that manner but it's a scary
> process. Personally, I'd put it up on a lathe faceplate, end-on,
> and bore it. If you don't have a lathe, you could put it
> vertically in a vice on a pillar drill and bore it out with a
> fly cutter/hole cutter.
> 


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