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[ATM] glued aluminium mirror cell update
Andreas,
Sorry to hear your epoxy bond is failing.
I don't see (on your web site/description) that you used sandpaper on the
surfaces of the aluminium prior to bonding two pieces together with
epoxy. I highly recommend this as it sands down to raw, unoxidized
aluminum, thus giving a better bond. The rough surface obviously gives the
epoxy much more to grab onto as well. Oxidation however is typically the
main issue with bonding metals. They will oxidize immediately so you want
to bond them as quickly as you can. A vacuum chamber filled with nitrogen
or... one trick is to do your final sanding "wet." Use some epoxy instead
of water though. This prevents the newly exposed raw aluminum from
oxidizing. Well, it greatly reduces it.
The other thing I noticed on your site is that you cooked this epoxy in an
oven. I see two potential problems with this. Can the epoxy take that
kind of heat (356F!/180C)? Normally off the shelf epoxies are meant for
room temp cures and only have Tg's (Glass Transition points) of
120-140F. The high temp epoxy I use on a daily basis can be cooked to 350F
but, and here's the other potential issue, it has to be cooked at a very
specific schedule. Initial ramp of only 5-7F/minute to 150F, then soak for
1 hr. Then up to 200 at the same 5-7F/m, then soak for 1 hr. And so
on. Final cool down is the same, no faster than 5-7F/m. If you cooked it
in your home's cooking oven, controlling the ramp temp would be next to
impossible, as ovens turn power on full to get up to the set temp as
quickly as possible.
Did the epoxy say to cook it in the fashion that you did? There are resins
that I know of that are meant for more instant heating but I've never heard
of an off the shelf epoxy that can take high temps. Plus the high temp
resins that I'm familiar with are very expensive, starting around $100/gallon.
My guess is that your problem lies somewhere within these three main issues:
- you overheated the epoxy.
- you heated it far too rapidly.
- the bond joint needs different preparation.
As far as CTE's, typically resins have far higher CTE's than even
aluminum. So if your bond was weak to begin with and temps swings did
cause a great enough stress due to differential CTE between two materials,
it was probably your resin shrinking more than the aluminum.
The bottom line though is that a decent epoxy should be able to withstand
this sort of environment without issue. 37F is not really that
cold. Unless the telescope was sitting at 225F a few minutes prior...
West Systems epoxies have been used in the boating industry for
decades. These are used in environments similar to ATM use: cold, wet,
dry, hot, you name it. If you want flexibility in the resin, you can
either use specific resins that have that property (although this doesn't
sound good for an opto-mechanical application where flexure is trying to be
minimized) or you can cure your resin in certain manners that helps produce
more flexible epoxy. I feel the issue is one of the three factors listed
above though. Spaced-based applications have been bonding aluminum to low
CTE composites for decades and those see huge temp swings compared to most
ground-based use, about +225-250F to -225-250F. Some systems see these
extremes every 90 minutes, +250F, then -250F...
Thank you.
Sincerely,
Shane Santi - Owner
Dream - Telescopes & Accessories, Inc.
http://www.dreamscopes.com
610 - 365 - 2833
Hey everyone,
I recently introduced my ATM 10" travel dobson (URL: www.duda-derwahl.de),
with one of the features being a glued mirror cell made from aluminium
square tubing (www.duda-derwahl.de/mirror_cell.htm).
After a couple of observing nights with cool, but not too cold
tempereatures (plus 3 - 5 degrees celsius) I had another failure of two of
the glued connections and I came to the decision to not pursue the glueing
any further. Though I cannot exclude mechanical stress as cause of the
failure, my guess is that the glue I used (epoxy brandname "Uhu Endfest
300") is not flexible enough to acommodate for the thermal expansion of the
aluminium.
In my opinion it does not neccessarily follow, that glueing cannot work -
as far as I know, glueing aluminium is sucessfully used in automobile and
window making industry. But the way I did it, is obviously not suitable to
form a longterm stable connection.
There's still room for improvement, though. Either using a more suitable
glue (more flexible or with matching thermal expansion), increasing the
overlap area of the aluminium parts, or reducing the gap between the
glueing surfaces.
But since the mirror is relatively lightweight (2.4 Kg) and I have some
scrap birch plywood at hand, I will make a new cell from wood that
hopefully won't have these problems.
Just thought I'd let you know in case someone want's to go along this track...
Andreas Derwahl
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