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Re: [ATM] glass or ceramic blank?



Wood works fine but you need to paint it with a sealer
first.  Polyurathane varnish works well.  I used 1
inch thick MDF for my eight inch as the base.  But if
you have an unworked mirror.  You can hog it out with
about any metal smaller in diameter.  Many people use
a metal pipe cap from the hardware store.  Then when
you have the curve generated and smoothed out at about
220 grit pour a dental or hydrostone tool with tiles
embeded in it.

See
http://www.johnstelescopes.com/  then look at the
mirror making links.
or 

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/9601/tool.htm


http://f2.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cH12QX0j4pkkFQn3rsomZX9Rnc9ZGHU73zQ4yNx9fW8VxV9-ZsIk4Qqk0_9aS8rWgu_5lWxQfwDf-nAkXG9suKUbxdQ/TILETOOL.doc

or 
 
http://www.gotgrit.com




Dale Eason
--- Jay Kirkland <jaykirk2@compusmart.ab.ca> wrote:

> Oh great, after lurking around and reading all your
> posts for the last year
> or so, you all and your talk of mirror making
> finally driven me crazy. Yes,
> I've started building a mirror test stand and
> Foucault tester and am going
> to finally finish my 6" starter mirror, so I can get
> on with the mirror I
> really want, a 10" f8 planetary.  And while that is
> still no doubt way far
> away, as I start laying in supplies for what looks
> like a long winter
> brewing up, already I have questions, including:
> Which would be  better for
> the 10"? - using an expensive glass tool or using
> not-expensive Will-Bell
> ceramics. And I just don't see epoxying the ceramics
> to a wooden substrate
> that would get wet, warp, soften, etc. If using
> ceramics, what would be the
> best backing material?
> 	Jay (What am I thinking???)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> ATM mailing list http://www.atmlist.net/
> 



		
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