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Re: ATM beginner tool questions
Bill,
> 1) Is it practical to make a tile tool for a 6" blank?
Sure! This is what I am using (and others have used) with great
success. This way, you keep the blank that you were going to use as a
tool as another mirror (as you mentioned). 6" Binocular scope would be
nice ;-)
> 2) Will the blank make good contact with the tiles during the chordal
> stroke? I'm thinking there will likely be dead zones where there are
> no tiles close enough to the edge. Will this be a problem?
You should not have any problems. Place the tiles as best as possible
for maximum coverage of the tool. Most of the time you will have tiles
out to the edge. Sometimes you will not. If it makes you feel better,
break or cut some of the tiles apart to fill in the dead zones. It does
not have to be pretty.
> 3) Should I use something else to hog out and then pour the tool once
> I get the general curve going?
If you use the tiles-embedded-in-the-tool method, you may wear the tiles
down on the edge. I find that the tiles are not tall enough when you
use this method. This is why I went to using epoxied on tiles. I
hogged out my curve using the tiles in the plaster method and wore away
the tiles on the edge. Once you do that, you can simply make another
tool (I mentioned earlier on the list of the technique I used to make a
new tool on a mirror that has been hogged out.)
>
> Oh, and I am fully prepared to employ the famous "grind more worry
> less" phrase throughout, thanks Ken 8^)
>
Good advise! I have found that I can apply that in many life
situations... hehehehe
Have fun Bill!
--
Jason Hissong
http://www.n8xe.com
http://www.jasonhissong.com