Re: [ATM] tile tool sticking

["Bob May" <rmay@nethere.com>]

Clearing out the channels does nicely allow the tool plaster to
be sealed without problems.  However, it does tend to eat grit
when it falls off of the sides of the tiles as you work.
I tend to be a bit parsimonious with the gtirs and work them to
the bitter end.  So far with my "Telescopics 8" kit that I got
more than 20 years ago, I've done the mirror, a pair of spheres
of 6" diameter for a Stevick Paul scope, Richard's 9" (just the
finer grits_, a 6" refractor and still havve a fair bit of the
210 and down grits.  I do use a diamond tool no for generating
curves but did use iron tools for many of those surfaces which is
why the 80 grit is long gone.  I'm so tight that I wash the 80
grit and sometimes have used it all the way down to the 320 grit
stage.  Tbhe CeO is also long gone from the kit as well as the
mold  that came with it (it just disintegrated after making a lap
one day_.  I liked the mold method of making laps so well that I
went down to a rubber wholesaler and finagled some silicone
rubber sheet from him and punched round holes in it for a new
mold.  I'm goiing to have to go get some more lilicone rubber
sheet so that I can do a bitter mold for my 15" blank that I've
got floating about.
When I start a surface, I usually do all of the grits in quick
order so I don't have the water addsorption problem and then let
things lay about for a long time until I finally decide to do the
polishing stuff.  I usually get the fast working glass pads and
work the heck out of them until I get a polsihed surfaceand they
stick best on a dry tool.  Pitch comes next and that puts a nice
finish on the glass followed by figuring of the surface.  I've
been using the Saran Wrap method of saving laps between long
layovers and tend to stor stuff in progres in a burpee container
with some water in the bottom just to make sure that things don't
dry out.






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