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Re: [ATM] fringe testing three flats
OK...
So I've moved up as it were to using 5ish fringes, but I'm still not
totally sure on which effect (when I push on the disk center) represents
a convex or concave surface.
So to take an example, when I have B on C I get fringes that look kind a
like this "]", and when I push on the center the fringes move towards
the theoretical center of the arc segments, however the spacing between
them doesn't change so long as I push on the center, if I push of center
then they change in spacing. I'm assuming that the high spot (see below
in the original post) is towards the "center" of the arcs that I see, is
this right?
BTW any suggestions on how to deal with a turned down edge 1/2 fringe by
sub 1/4" wide....
Clear Skies, Thomas.
www.tjanstrom.com
www.norsewines.com.au
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Lockwood [mailto:melockwo@uiuc.edu]
Sent: Saturday, 5 November 2005 2:13 AM
To: atm@atmlist.net
Cc: Thomas Janstrom
Subject: Re: [ATM] fringe testing three flats
Thomas,
Thomas Janstrom wrote:
> I usually aim for about 10-15 fringes.
Try for only a few fringes (~5) if the mirrors are only 4.25" in
diameter. If they are clean, this won't be a problem.
> Anyway now that I'm down to an error of less than .5 of a fringe
(bulk),
> although there is a low center on one and another has a somewhat nasty
> 1/4W X 1/2" wide turned edge. So what I'd like to know is how do I
> *know* if the surface is concave or convex?
> I've tried the moving my head towards and away thing as mentioned in
ATM
> vol. 1, but there is no discernable movement of the fringes one way or
> the other. So any suggestions?
Put two of the pieces together and get a bullseye (if you can - if you
can't see the next paragraph). When you press on the edge of the pair
under test, if the fringes move toward your finger there is a net
convexity between the two pieces. If the fringes move away, there is
a net concavity. Alternately, if you press in the center of the
disks, if the fringes move inward, there is a net concavity, and if
they move outward there is net convexity.
If you get only sections of fringes that are reasonably straight (no
bullseye), apply pressure in the center of the disks with a finger.
Note the direction that the fringes move as you apply pressure - this
is the direction of a wider air gap (because you are reducing the air
gap with the pressure). Release the pressure, and examine the
fringes. Fringes that bend in that direction (towards the larger air
gap) will indicate a high spot. (As the fringe crosses a high spot it
must bend toward a wider air gap in order to maintain its contour of
equal distance between the glass surface.)
To determine the amount each flat varies from true flatness, you can
then use the results of three combinations (flat A on B, B on C, and C
on A) of tests to solve for the error of each of the three surfaces
(as a function of radius, if you like), as I think the article you
mentioned in ATM 1 will tell you how to do, and which you probably
already have done.
If you are using an uncollimated light source, make sure you view the
fringes from at least ~48" away, to reduce parallax error to
negligible levels. If your source is collimated, you don't have to
worry about it.
Hope that helps, and I hope I didn't accidentally reverse any of
these..... ;)
Mike Lockwood
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