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Re: [ATM] Tool Tiles
The dental stone or other materials (see my other post) are a lot
softer than the tiles are and tend to wear away smoothly. When
you get done grinding, you can also polish out the tool if you
really want to have some fun and see how different the two curves
really are. If you do, you'll find that the tool won't polish
but the tiles will.
Shakers for the tool really arn't needed as a few quick shakes
with the hands will do more than enough. If you're afraid of not
getting the plaster through the mesh, remember that the floor
tile layers use those tiles and their thinset cement gets through
just fine. Besides, you can always come through and finish up
holes in the front side with a bit more of the plaster. The big
thing tho is to make sure that you mix the plaster/cement/stone
up thin enough to go throug the mesh. Hydrostone, for example,
when mixed by the formula, is really quite runny, like a thick
cream.
Bob May
rmay at nethere.com
http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay
http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Wheaton <junkwheaton@gmail.com>
To: ATM list <atm@atmlist.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:09 PM
Subject: [ATM] Tool Tiles
> I'm getting close to finishing hogging my 12.5" mirror (blog
and more
> videos<http://pythiashat.blogspot.com/>).
> It's a little faster than I meant to do, but I am hoping to
take that out
> about 4 or 5 inches to f/5.5 or as close as possibly can.
>
> I have a few specific questions now that I am at this stage,
and possibly a
> challange of the state of things. All of you guys are really
good at
> sheparding tyros like me, and at the same time getting into
some really
> interesting conversations on advanced things that I find
fascinating to
> read. I'm putting them away in my mind for my next project.
>
> At any rate, I went to Lowes at lunch today and got a 12" x 12"
square of 1"
> tiles to create a fine grinding tool . It's been suggested all
over the
> place to use the "hard" type of tile. Well, it's all hard as
far as I can
> tell. The flat I got is an off color brown-grey porceline with
a thin flat
> glaze to it -- not white though. Does that matter? Each tile
is very
> square, with sharp corners that is, its not rounded like old
gloss bathroom
> tile. And its flat -- hardly any texture. I think it will lay
down on my
> mirror quite well when pour. The backing of the tile is a thin
pasteboard
> mesh in contact with the tile, and a thin fiber open mesh
netting - like for
> scrubbing, but with holes that are > .1" inch diameter. There
is little
> space for fluid flow, and I'm a little afraid if I use dental
stone, that it
> won't get down in all the crevases if I make the rather thick
recommended
> mixture. Am I worrying too much?
>
> Everyone says to use "dental stone", not "dental plaster". I
did online
> research, and indeed there are big differences in hardness.
The other
> reason to use dental stone is because it has small grain and
its purity
> won't induce large scratchy objects the way that grout might.
>
> Here is my challange to you all. Wouldn't concrete poured and
vibrated into
> the "dam" work as well, and then afterwards use some of that
"non-sanded"
> polymer grout do the same thing, especially with some of the
sealants I've
> seen lately? If not, then why not? What about a
combination -- .5 inch of
> dental stone and 2.5 inches of reinforced concrete?
>
> Also, when grinding the tile, won't be as risky of getting big
scratchy
> things from the tile than from the dental stone? Or even more
so? Wouldn't
> that negate the whole "fine partical" rationale behind using
dental stone?
>
> In otherwords, I want to know if the use of dental stone is due
to inertial
> "we have always done it that way" forces, or if less exotic
materials were
> tried and found wanting, and how long ago was that, and has
technology
> changed since then?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Bill Wheaton
> Decatur GA.
> _______________________________________________
> ATM mailing list http://www.atmlist.net/
>
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