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Re: [ATM] Tile tool

Honestly you should be making the Tile Tool *after* you are done hogging.

>From Richard Schwartz's Tile Tool document:

Tile tools work best if they are molded to the curve of your mirror.   That 
means that you should have a mirror blank that is already hogged out to the 
approximate curve you desire.   (I generate my curves by slumping the glass 
on a special mold at high temperature.)   You can use almost anything as a 
tool for hogging out the curve.   I have heard of people using bar bell 
weights, pipe flanges, sub-diameter tile tools, and even flat stones.   For 
hogging out the approximate curve, you do not need great accuracy, as you 
will never go finer than #120 grit.

Gerald, your mirror is small enough you should be ok. But as a Rule the Tile 
tool is made later.

That is why it is a Kit and not pre-made

tom
GotGrit.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mitch" <funnybone101@earthlink.net>
Cc: <atm@atmlist.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [ATM] Tile tool


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: atm-bounces@atmlist.net [mailto:atm-bounces@atmlist.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> Gerald Clay
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 9:30 AM
> To: atm@atmlist.net
> Subject: [ATM] Tile tool
>
> Hi,
>
>   I just made my first tile tool.  I'm using it for rough grinding and
> think I may have done something wrong.  I have a sub-diameter tile mat, 
> and
> when I took the tool off my mirror the dental stone and mat were flush 
> with
> each other.  I followed the directions I got from gotgrit.com but I don't
> think it should be this way.  Did I do something wrong?  or am I supposed 
> to
> grind like that?
>
> Gerald
>
> That should be fine for roughing. If you have to make a new one after
> hogging it is nice to have some small channels to reduce sticking, 
> although
> as someone said you have to be careful to clean the channels well!!!!
>
> Mitch
>
> _______________________________________________
> ATM mailing list http://www.atmlist.net/
> 

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