Re: [ATM] Tile tool

[Jarvis Krumbein <jkoptic@juno.com>]

You want to use "vitreous" tiles, that is tiles that are hard clear
through.  Typically, these are the kind of tiles used for bathroom floors
and are either about 1" square or hex shaped.  In the USA, these are
obtainable in sheets where the tiles are spaced and fastened to a backing
that is flexible.  This greatly simplifies putting the tiles on the tool.
 Most glazed wall tiles are not much harder than plaster once you are
through the glaze and should not be used.  I use polyester resin to
completely coat the tool before attaching the tiles.  This waterproofs
the tool and keeps any small particles from breaking off.  I attach the
tiles using the resin as the adhesive and then cover the tool with
plastic wrap and then place the rough ground blank on top of the tool.  I
use small tools to rough out the blank to about the desired ROC and then
cast the cement tool so it has the same curve.  One advantage of coating
the tool completely with the polyester resin is that the tiles really
hold fast and don't come loose when glued on with the resin.  You can use
glass squares in place of tile but these will usually wear faster than
the tiles will.  I've used both and prefer the tile because it's a lot
more convenient.

Jarvis Krumbein

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 21:18:22 +0100 <dhkblaszyk@zeelandnet.nl> writes:
 
Any way, I went to the local 
> hardware store to get polyester resin and ceramic tiles. But I could 
> not decide which type of tile to choose. Do I need to buy floor 
> tiles that are a bit harder or are wall tiles also ok? What about 
> glass mosaic tiles?? I remembered that I have also some glass plates 
> laying around of 4mm thickness. I could glue 1x1inch pieces on 
> instead of tiles. Does anybody have some experience with this, or 
> are tiles much better??
> Another question that I have; do I need to paint (standard oil based 
> timber paint) the tool prior to glueing, or do I cover the tool 
> completely with polyester resin?
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