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[ATM] sticking it
Good ideas all around as usual.Dave.Your ideas interest me.If you want
any more chat on the subject,I'd be happy to help.I think a project like
this would be a benefit to many.Here is some input from a
lapidary/machinist point.I agree that proper prepping is essential to good
long-lasting bonding.Like a marriage you need to remember the little
details.In our shop,we use the Hughes Associates system.I have preached
this before so bear with me.The #330water-clear epoxy system is highly
regarded in the stone industry as a hard,polish able bond.I would use it to
fill holes in mirrors if it would not melt during the aluminizing phase.I
use theOpticon224 filler-sealer on all my jewelry and sphere work.It is
invisible and forever.The #330 glue works well on differing surfaces
providing you prep all oil and dirt from the site.I rough up mating
surfaces prior to bonding for better adhesion.I make up driving plates for
turning 20lb sphere blanks.These are 2"X2"X3/4" pine with a 1" threaded
plug glued to the piece.The epoxy never fails under vibration,water,and
torque. Getting the piece off the stone destroys the wood and sometimes
some very expensive rock.So I have no doubt it'll bear up under the use of
a "sky-box".The working time is 20 minutes.For Formica try keeping the
contact cement away from the edges with blue painters tape.Lay your Formica
down as usual.Using a vacuum rout the edges as usual.Now peel off the tape
from both substrate and Formica.Rub on some acetone for a final clean. Mix
up the #330,1 to1 ratio.I use a SS tablespoon and craft sticks.Keep a
palette knife, and acid brush handy.Prop up the Formica with thin wood
sticks.Spread on the glue carefully.Keep to the edge rather then allow it
to creep towards the contact cement.It will anyway but it may not hurt
anything.If it runs down the finished Formica sides,just wipe it up.I use
alcohol.Put some weight on it so you get a little squeeze out.When it is
cured in 18 hours,take a box cutter and trim off any excess.You now have a
weather joint that is now a strong point.Do not try to release the bond
unless you want to build another joint.For even stronger work,you can
substitute the epoxy for the contact cement.It may work well for installing
studs into wood as well.Just drill for a tapped hole and run the bolt in
with the epoxy.It should hold very well.The fracture sealer is also great
for filling voids in just about anything.Although it is not a glue,it does
stick very well.And it can be used on or near the #330.Another nice thing
about both products is no bubbles.They just perk out during the curing
process.Now some tips:
shelf life-12 months curing conditions rel. humidity under 60%, curing
accel.130 degrees F. max. Use gloves if your skin is sensitive,and a mask
if working close to the epoxy.Mixing time per 10 drop batch,2 minutes.Mix
is 1 to1 ratio.You can let it set up for 5 minutes if you want to apply
with a thicker batch.One kit for both filler and glue is around $50 more or
less.Ground rate UPS.I do not work for them,but I do use their
products.They are at Hughes Associates18116 Mtka Blvd. Wayzata,MN 55391
tel:952-404-2626, fax 952-474-4636 They give advice on the phone.
regards,Ron
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