Re: [ATM] plans to build an adjustable observing chair - cheap!

[George Anderson <tillerman1@videotron.ca>]

Mark Holm wrote:
<SNIP>
> 
> I'd go with varnish rather than paint, because all the pigment in paint
> adds noticeable weight.  

If the weight increase is so large as to make carrying the chair more
difficult when using paint, possibly the person should consider another
hobby as the scope will definately out weight the chair. My preferance
would be towards polyurethene so as to show off the grain of the wood.
True varnish (with the exception of spar varnish) does not do as well
outdoors as the urethenes or even enamel paints. Also paint should be
applied in thin coats and allowe to drybefore adding a second and third
coat (after priming). On an observing chair the weight increase with
paint should not add enough weight so as to make the chair a burden
unless it was already so before painting.


>I'd also choose the cheapest stud grade 2x4 for
> the simple reason that they are less dense than better grades.  You can
> definitely notice the weight difference.

Around here stud grade 2 by 4's will twist in a heartbeat, be loaded
with knots, and the wood is not dried and weeps sap like you wouldn't
believe. Probably be able to harvest pitch for a mirror if you bought
enough of them.
Although hardwoods are heavier you can get away with thinner wood by
using clear (knot free) maple, ash, oak, cherry (with brass fittings of
course (for DF)). The end result is a chair that is only slightly
heavier.
The hardwoods will also wear better at the ground points and notches.
But I would use 1.5" to 2" thick pine for the actual seat and
carve/scope it out to suit the applied load points on your body.
My $0.02 canookian pesos worth.

George Anderson
Montreal Canada

Clear skies and good health
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