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Re: [ATM] (not) grinding with diamond
Douglas
Your second blade may be a little to fine a grit for this type of
work. Normally on a surface grinder this blade would run at 1500 -2000
rpm and would grind very small amounts, .0002" per pass. The tile saw
would be the equivelent of a 60 grit grinding wheel. and is mounted in a
metal matrix which may reqire more weight to get it to cut. The new
blade may be clogging and need to be cleaned with a aluminum oxide
dressing stick to expose the diamond grit.
Try using a permant marker on the blade to see if there is any rubbing
of the steel or aluminum of the blade on the glass.
Douglas S Angle wrote:
>I've built a curve generator using a cheap diamond blade, similar to
>what's described on Dan Cassaro's page http://home.comcast.net/~cassarole/
>and Peter Smith's http://www.users.bigpond.com/pjifl/page16.html. It
>started off well, but after a while the blade just stopped cutting. I've
>tried a few things differently, but now I'm stumped.
>
>The project is a 16" f/6. The glass is mounted on a rotary table built
>from a worm gear reduction drive. The tile cutting diamond blade is
>backed by an old gear for rigidity, which is welded to a 1" shaft, which
>is turned by a belt off a drill press pulley. The whole thing is held
>together by a wooden frame. The glass rotates about 30 RPM, and the blade
>about 200rpm. The shaft is held by wooden blocks, oiled for friction.
>Pressure on the blade is just from the weight of the pulley, shaft and
>gear, which amounts to a few pounds. Not exactly a milling machine, but
>it does seem to work. The glass rotates, the diamond wheel rotates, it
>makes scratching noises, in fact it seems to do everything I expect but
>cut the glass. Which was kind of the point to start with.
>
>I started with a 10" tile cutting blade, mounted to a wooden disk, such
>that the wood presses only on the rim, and the mounting bolts pull the
>center up a little. The shaft is tilted to the correct angle, and garden
>hose provides water for cooling and dust control. (if you are considering
>trying this search the archives for diamond generation and read all the
>safety warnings about silica dust first!) The curve starts in the center,
>and went well until there was a concave section about 5" in diameter.
>Things then went progressively slower until it basically stopped grinding
>at about 8". There seems to be some wear on the blade just inside the
>diamond rim. At that point I added the wooden backing disc, but no
>change.
>
>I then bought a new blade that seemed more suited to the task from shars
>http://www.shars.com/Online_catalog.htm?sec=126&lang=1033 pg 82 cat#
>D1A1-2234. I would have preferred a cup wheel, but didn't find one big
>enough for the job. The diamond is actually thicker than the aluminum
>part of the blade, so it protrudes a bit. There is a little lip on the
>inside of the diamond edge, which I've trimmed off as much as I can.
>There's no wear patterns on the metal part of the blade.
>
>I mounted this blade, and got essentially the same results. After an hour,
>it hasn't even taken out the scratches from previous work. The references
>above talk about hogging in minutes, but I've had this running about 4
>hours in total now.
>
>Any suggestions, particularly ones that don't involve buying another
>diamond wheel?
>
>Thanks
>-Doug
>
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