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Re: [ATM] []Hogging 10"F5 Plate glass
Use the glass for another mirror!!!!
On 1/22/08, Bob May <rmay@nethere.com> wrote:
>
> The idea of using a positive expansion stone is a good one. This
> means a better clamp on the tiles so they don't come out. Dental
> stone is also of the same kind and I've never hadd a fully
> trapped tile come out. I just aly the mat on the mirror and cu
> the tiles away that hang over, making sure that there is always
> at least half a tile left after cutting it. The mat material
> also helps keep the tiles in place on the tool. For the bubbles,
> I just pull the tool off of the mirror at the earliest possible
> time and, using a bit of fresh stone, go and fill them in wiht a
> putty knife, mixing the stone and water on the tool.
> The excvcess water really won't affect the performance of the
> tool for strength as it will be much more strong than is needed
> to hold things together.
> Plasters and stones of all kinsds are nice as you can start
> working opn them before they are fully cured as once they are
> holding themselves together, you can start doing things to them.
> Partially cured stone is a lot softer and thus you can do things
> like flattening the back side so that it doesn't rock as you
> grind.
> I've also made tile tools from glass that has been broken apart.
> Double thickness is recommended on this and put the glass down on
> the mirror so that the bevels will be embedded in the stone and
> thus be held better. I've used both tile saw cut glass as well
> as just cracked glass like the windo9w people do wiht glass.
> Even odd chunks work well.
> Bob May
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