Re: [ATM] []Hogging 10"F5 Plate glass

["Bob May" <rmay@nethere.com>]

The idea of using a positive expansion stone is a good one.  This
means a better clamp on the tiles so they don't come out.  Dental
stone is also of the same kind and I've never hadd a fully
trapped tile come out.  I just aly the mat on the mirror and cu
the tiles away that hang over, making sure that there is always
at least half a tile left after cutting it.  The mat material
also helps keep the tiles in place on the tool.  For the bubbles,
I just pull the tool off of the mirror at the earliest possible
time and, using a bit of fresh stone, go and fill them in wiht a
putty knife, mixing the stone and water on the tool.
The excvcess water really won't affect the performance of the
tool for strength as it will be much more strong than is needed
to hold things together.
Plasters and stones of all kinsds are nice as you can start
working opn them before they are fully cured as once they are
holding themselves together, you can start doing things to them.
Partially cured stone is a lot softer and thus you can do things
like flattening the back side so that it doesn't rock as you
grind.
I've also made tile tools from glass that has been broken apart.
Double thickness is recommended on this and put the glass down on
the mirror so that the bevels will be embedded in the stone and
thus be held better.  I've used both tile saw cut glass as well
as just cracked glass like the windo9w people do wiht glass.
Even odd chunks work well.
Bob May
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