Re: [ATM] Material for Tool

["Bob May" <rmay@nethere.com>]

Went and rea the article on the tile tool and I don't bother with
the plastic bag.  I don't know hwat he is using that one for as
the oil (any kind of oil that is not water soluable) does an
excellent job of acting as a mold release on the glass to stone
interface.
I also tend to do a thinner mix of the water and powder for the
stone as you really want to have enought water in there so that
the stone will flow.  It sounds like he's doing a too thick mix
of water and powd3er fr best results.   You need to be able to
shake the wet liquid stone down to the level or the glass so a
bit thinner is best.
It also looks like that he is using glazed tiles which is
something I don't recommend as the floor tiles are the ones to
use, not the wall tiles which may be of something a lot softer.
It also looks like he cleans out the channels obetween the tiles
which is something quite unnecessary.  The stone will erode quite
nicely all by itlesf without any need to remove it before
grinding.  In addition, the stone being up ass high as the
surface of the tiles means that there is no grit that has
anyplace to fall out of contact with the glass so less is wasted
and the grinding ghoes faster.
The only thing I do with the surface of the tool is to sprinkle
some additional stone powder on and work it into any bubble areas
if there are many when the glass is first taken off of the tool.
I generally take the glass of when the stone is less than half
cured so I am usually able to use the curing stone fromt the
edges to fill in holes.  THAT is how soft a tool is when I first
take it off of the glass.
One more thing is that he doesn't mention anything abou tleveling
the back side of the tool so it doesn't rock yet sits firmlyt on
much of the back of the tool.  A few passes on a sidewalk or
other concrete surface will flatten out the tool back quickly
while it is still curing.
Otherwise, most of the article is about what I do.
Bob May
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