Re: [ATM] Not tde or tue, important oblate spheroid, ellipsoid

["lütfü" "çakmak" <lutfu_cakmak@yahoo.com>]

That's very kind of you, Jerry. I think you are a
young man. I'm in 47. I hope you don't be older than
me.

I hope be successful to finish my mirror at this
weekend under your guidance light. Thanks for helping.

Best regards,

Lutfu

--- Jerry <wa4guu@verizon.net> wrote:

> Ok Lutfu
> 
> Your English is better than my reading. I thought I
> had read all of your
> post. I didn't see that you had said the grating had
> 100 lpi. We might have
> a little difficulty communicating, but if we were
> doing it in your language
> we would have big problems. I have trouble with my
> own language. I'm too old
> to get better at it and don't think I will be
> learning much of another one.
> I have to read a couple of times to be sure of what
> you mean sometimes, but
> you are doing well at English.
> 
> I am not in a hurry for the lap picture. I just
> wanted to see how the facets
> and channels look. I like the way you scored the
> facets with 3 marks. I
> would like to see the facets in the middle half of
> the mirror pressing to be
> a little larger. I'm worried that the lap may be too
> thin to fix it by just
> pressing to fill the channels and the trim to a good
> shape. So I hope that
> as you work and the channels close some you can trim
> it a little each time
> and get some work done while the lap slowly gets to
> a better shape.
> 
> If the channels near the center fill in, when you
> trim them it would be good
> not to make the channels deeper than near the edge.
> That is part of the
> reason for the hill in the center. As you work, the
> central facets can flow
> faster because the channels are deeper giving more
> space for the pitch to go
> into. The center of the mirror presses them down
> faster as you work than the
> edge facets are pressed. Because the center ones
> give way easier, they do
> not work the glass as fast and so the center ends up
> high.
> 
> Don't trim near the center except to fix pinching
> channels. If the facets
> near the center come into contact don't trim the
> channels deeper than near
> the edge. That will slow down the flow of the pitch
> near the center and the
> tendency to make a hill or oblate will be lessened.
> You do need the channels
> but you don't want them deeper or wider than near
> the edge of the lap.
> 
> Nobody can guarantee success at some specific time.
> Even with descriptions
> of methods that work, there is still quite a bit of
> learning to do. You have
> to bring many things under control and then make
> relatively small changes in
> some of them to gain control of the surface. You
> have to tell it in it's
> language what shape it is supposed to be. You have
> to learn that figuring
> language and it will take a little experimentation.
> Advisors giving
> suggestions on the internet can only narrow the
> range of possibilities for
> you to try to some things that have worked for them.
> No one learns all the
> words in the dictionary. Some people learn to say
> the same thing another
> would say, but with different words. If you are
> patient you will learn to
> tell the mirror what shape it should be in the
> language it will understand.
> 
> This figuring session you should not work more than
> 20 minutes with the big
> W normal parabolizing stroke. Trim the lap if it
> needs trimming. Only trim
> it where needs trimming. Clean and press it well,
> and stroke slow.
> 
> Slow...
> 
> Jerry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lütfü çakmak 
> 
> 
> I think that understand all an I will try at this
> weekend. Sorry, I have worked on my mirror in my
> house
> which is countryside only weekends. I can take
> further
> a picture of the lap merely at this weekend. But, I
> wrote down that what my ronchi grating is 100 lpi at
> the end of my previous message. Probably you have
> not
> seen it because you had replied to Mike's message. 
> 
> 
> 



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