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Re: [ATM] Another machining question, please



Hi Gary,

I have nothing to add to the three who got in before on your Q.

Other than take it slow when grinding, don't push too hard, try to keep the
two edges equal in angle and cutting area/width, and cool often, I usually
grind for about 2-3 seconds dip in the coolant (water, or soluble oil work
great) for about 5-10 seconds (really depends on the size the object is and
how critical maintaining the hardness/temper is) bigger items get a longer
dunking....

If you are careful you will have a tool with all the properties of the
original, but with your custom profile, a neat capacity for a small shop to
have, being able to customise their tooling!

Cheers, and please exercise the usual caution when using power tools.

Thomas. 

-----Original Message-----
From: GF [mailto:gary@rcn.com] 
Sent: Saturday, 17 February 2007 11:18 AM
To: thomas@moiler.com
Cc: atm@atmlist.net
Subject: Re: [ATM] Another machining question, please

Thomas,

Would the drill need to be re-hardened after grinding?

Thanks,

Gary Fuchs


Thomas Janstrom wrote:

>Hi Tom,
>
>You want to re-grind the drill to a profile that will cut the sort of hole
>you want, that way the drill can cut the shoulder that you need.
>
>And yes, you never quite have all the tools that you need/want/can have,
>that's where asking comes in, some one will know of a "cheat" to get the
job
>done anyway!
>
>Cheers, Thomas.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: atm-bounces@atmlist.net [mailto:atm-bounces@atmlist.net] On Behalf Of
>Thomas A Simmons
>Sent: Friday, 16 February 2007 11:47 PM
>To: atm@atmlist.net
>Subject: Re: [ATM] Another machining question, please
>
>
>and how to modify a drill bit to grind (??) the bottom flat.
>
>
>
>
>
>Evidently, I don't have enough tools (VERY big laugh).
>
>
>
>
>
>Tom
>Too stubborn to quit being an ATMer
>
>
>
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>  
>
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