Re: [ATM] Alternatives to double-sided foam tape

[Daniel Fundo <fundo@bellsouth.net>]

<<  What other means are there by which I can attach it more-or-less
permanently, but still removable, and safer than double-sided tape?  >>

Bruce,  I have had pieces connected with double sided foam tape sitting
outside for yers without a failure.  The main reason the tape lets go,
other than the foam rotting away, is usually improper application.  The
most important step on connecting anything, regardless of the adhesive
used, is surface preparation.

Get a bottle of lighter fluid (i.e. cigarette lighter....."Ronsonol" is
what you will find most often) and wipe the surfaces that the tape will
go on with the fluid.  You don't have to pour it on, just wet a paper
towel with it and clean the contact areas.  Now carefully place the tape
on, don't touch the adhesive surface with your fingers, and press the
pieces together.  It should now hold for a long time, regardless of
conditions.

We had a discussion on the Protostar flocked paper last year.  I placed
some in the tube of the first edition of my 12.5", and used the foam
tape supplied with my Telrad to fit the base to the outside.  I used the
above procedure to prep the inside of the tube and the base on the
outside.  The paper is still firmly attached to the inside of the tube,
and the base is still on the outside (one of the mounting "ears" broke
off and I bought a new base).  The tube has been outside for several
years.  The temps have been as high as 104 degrees and as low as 17; we
have had 50 inches of rain annually.  The fiberglass tube (from Parks)
is beginning to show some wear, cracks in the gelcoat finish, but it
will still hold my 200 pounds.  The Protostar flocked paper is a bit
lose around the edges in a few places, but it won't be falling off
anytime soon.  Same for the Telrad base.

As for drilling a hole in aluminum tubing, as long as you have a sharp
bit, there should be no problem.  The aluminum used in most tubes is
alloy 6061 T6, so it will flex a bit without permanently distorting. 
Make sure you center punch the spot before you start to drill, and use a
drop of oil to lubricate the bit as you progress (keeps the tip cool and
sharp).

3M has a releaseable adhesive on hooks they marketed a few years ago. 
There is a tab sticking out which can be pulled to break the adhesion. 
It leaves a clean, unmarked surface.  I have used several of the hooks
they sell, and it works as advertised.  I don't know what the
temperature tolerance for it is.  I'll look around.

Add standard disclaimer for all products mentioned above.

*****-----
Dan F.
Former Secretary/MAS
Memphis, TN
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