Fwd: RE: [ATM] Pit Stop (Pun) - Newbie needs advice.

["Matthew L. Brown" <mlbrown@everstrive.com>]

>From: Ken Lowther <hermit@outofoptions.org>
>Quoting David Grennan <dave@webtreatz.com>:
>
>>Thomas, I have to say this is a first class tip.  After only about 7 long
>>wets with 220 Alox.
>
>Don't prolong wets.  They don't do any good after a while and you risk
>scratches.
>
>Ken

 From here on out you are doing 3 things simultaneously on each grit:
1) progressively reducing the pit size
2) getting the mirror and tool to mate with each other in matching spheres
3) adjusting or maintaining the radius of curvature to what you want (or 
can live with)

So before you move onto the next grit, you should check that
a) am I down to just moving pits around, rather than reducing their sizes?
b) do the mirror and tool match to within a grit diameter?  The sharpie 
test is the best bet.
c) is the radius of curvature close enough for me now?  Assume on each grit 
that you can only move the ROC in the *next* grit by half what you did this 
time.  But don't stress it.  If you end up with an 8" f6.7, would you 
really care?

Other tips:
To prevent grit contamination
1) Line your dunk bucket with a plastic trash bag, then replace for every grit
2) Change your clothes and shower between grits -- I find washing my hair 
really cleans underneath the fingernails.  Yes, I have found grit in my 
hair, no doubt transported there by my own hand.
3) If you've made a tile tool, inspect it carefully.  I've found a garden 
hose is quite effective for blasting grit out of crevices (and blasting 
loose tiles off).

Oh, and don't pour your dunk bucket down the drain; the glass particles 
have been known to bond together and plug up the drain.   Mine goes into 
the compost pile, where it mixes in and stays moist.

=Matt




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