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[ATM] Re: Second Thoughts on Mirror Support
Jeff Anderson-Lee wrote:
> Here's a scenario that seems promising:
>
> 16 by 1+5/8 inch f/4 pyrex mirror
> 9 RTV pads: 3/4 inch diameter by 3/16 inch thick
> 1/2 inch steel annulus back plate 12.64in diameter with 2in central hole.
>
> The P-V on the thicker back plate is reduced to 1.22e4-4 mm (4.79e-6
> inches). By monitoring the contour lines drawn by plop and shifting
> the plate support
> points we can control the relative flexing at the mirror support
> points to give
> us another factor of 5 or so versus the P-V, bringing us down to 1e-6
> inches
> of deformation. The net force for a 1e-6" deflection on the smaller
> but thicker
> pads is 0.20 lb, which is safely under our 0.67 lb limit.
>
> It doesn't leave a lot of wiggle room for differential expansion, so
> I'd probably
> stick to using this for steel with plate glass, but nonetheless, it
> just might work!
>
> Of course, now you have a huge heat sink sitting 1/8 in behind the
> mirror, but
> at least with the central hole you could put in a muffin fan to
> provide a flow of
> ambient air to improve cooling.
I ran the numbers for an 8 inch mirror I have as well. It also
seemingly needs a half-inch steel plate underneath to keep the plate's
flexing within tolerance. The half inch plate weighs 5 times as much as
the mirror! YUCK!
I'm stumped as to why Don's cell works as well as it does, unless those
turned down/turned up edges are giving it much more rigidity than we are
crediting it.
Given that this technique seems to require such a thick steel plate I'm
tempted to shelve the idea, however another thought came up after
talking off-line with Jean-Guy Moreau <jgmoreau@cablevision.qc.ca> and
Nils Olaf Carlin <nilsolof.carlin@telia.com>:
Suppose instead of a THICK steel plate you use a very THIN plate--even
sheet metal. You sandwhich three layers: the metal, some plush
carpeting, and an underlying support (e.g 1.5 inches of cured/dried
plywood sealed against humidity changes). Use a torque driver and
screws to make sure all of the connecting bolts have the same tension.
Put a central hole in the sandwhich so that air can be forced between
the mirror and the back plate using a small muffin fan. Then, RTV the
mirror to the metal using multiple, small area pads.
The hope is that the sandwhich would give similar all-over support as
the carpet used to grind/polish the mirror on, yet have airspace for
forced ventilation, while the RTV avoids the need for a sling.
Thoughts?
Jeff Anderson-Lee
Sacramento, CA