Re: ATM a pier for the realm

[mohib_ebrahim.smz@attglobal.net]

Hi Ron:

Thanks for the response.

This is an interesting idea. If I understand correctly the stone is
sandwiched between two plates, one on the bottom, and one on the top. To
the top one the pier is welded, and then another plate welded to the top of
the pier for the scope? I suppose leveling could be accomplished by having
some extra nuts under the plate just on top of the stone, and I'd probably
use a 6" pipe. You mention that the bed I'd put this in should allow it to
sink about 1", however I've only got concrete to work on so I suppose it
could rest on this.

How much do one of these stones weigh? Would this be as rigid as having 3
diagonal braces (like tripod legs) pulling down from the top of the pier
fastened to concrete anchors about 2' out from the pier? I'm going to have
a maximum of 65lbs of gear on top, plus the weight of the pipe
(4'x6"=80lbs) and I wouldn't want the whole thing tipping over or wobbly.

I've been looking into steel pipe and it seems it's available in two
styles: galvanized and "regular"--galvanzied being about 50% more in price.
I'm not sure which I should get or what the differences would be for
stiffness, rust, painting etc. for this application. I was told by the
piping outfit that the "regular" has a black coating that needs to be
removed either with sandblasting or a hand drill and some sort of scouring
pad before a primer for paint could be applied. And the galvanized needs to
be "cleaned" in vinegar to prepare it for a primer. Do you have any
suggestions which type of pipe I should get?

Also how do I prepare and protect the inside of the pipe for painting and
rust? Seems like it's going to be a real chore to paint that, but I suppose
a roller on a broom stick would work since it doesn't have to look good.

Regards
Mohib

On 02/07/2002 03:54:11 AM Ina Ron Lippard Renaissance Reproductions  wrote:

>    I have to agree with Ken. Keep it simple. I would use a set-up like
this:
>    Get a 2'X2' concrete patio flag stone or 30" round patio stone. Attach
>a base-plate that
>is 1/2" thick 12" square. The 4 corner bolts come up thru the bottom. Use
>all stainless
>fasteners and washers for a good hold. Now the pier has been welded to
both
>bottom and top
>plates. Use hot-rolled (commonly known as black-iron) steel for both
plates
>and pier. Make
>the pier 3" pipe.Keep in mind that all pipe in this country is measured
>from the INSIDE.
>    The top plate has your mounting holes. They can be threaded or just
>drilled to take thru bolts. Depending on how big a scope you have and
>weather you want to install a wedge or
>not.When this is all done, take the pipe,(now having plates on each end)
to
>a shop that does
>sand-blasting and have them go over it real good with the sand-blaster.
>Then paint it whatever color you like.
>    The beauty of this system is of course in its simplicity, cost and
>transportability. The large
>round,(or square) stone can be managed easily by 1 person.The rest of it
>can be separated
>and worked on as needed. The welding and sand-blasting can be done by the
>same shop.
>It fills all your requirements for cost, ease of manufacture, and
>portability. To install this rig
>just find a spot that can be leveled. The bed should allow the base to
sink
>in about an inch.
>This is the only time you will need additional help. Rather then expect
the
>pier to remain
>level, I would just get it as close as you can. Then adjust for any
deviation
>at the equatorial head. I would think the whole set-up would cost under
>$100, a one-time
>out-lay. Design it well, do it once, and it should give good, long
service.
>regards, Ron
>
>