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Re: [ATM] Scratches keep forming on edge of mirror



Hi Adam,

Sorry for the delayed response. I'm currently polishing my first mirror.
Consequently I don't have as much experience as the others. I had
trouble beveling with a sharpening stone. For some reason I kept getting
small chips on the outside edge of the blank. 

So, I switch from a sharpening stone to wet sanding paper. I found this
gave a nice smooth bevel. I'll probably just use wet sanding paper on my
next mirror.

-Anthony, Round Rock TX

> -----Original Message-----
> From: atm-bounces@atmlist.net 
> [mailto:atm-bounces@atmlist.net] On Behalf Of Dominic-Luc Webb
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 2:29 AM
> To: ATM Superheros
> Subject: Re: [ATM] Scratches keep forming on edge of mirror
> 
> On Thu, 16 Aug 2007, Adam Krause wrote:
> 
> > I have made my tile tool and it now has good contact with 
> the mirror 
> > surface (8" f/6.2)
> SNIP
> > knife sharpening oil stone.  When I get scratches, I have 
> gone back to 
> > rebevel the tile tool.
> SNIP
> > stroke (4" total stroke length) with MOT to try to bring 
> the surface 
> > to spherical.  That is when I noticed the scratches coming 
> up again.  
> > I will be grinding along fine, and then I will feel resistance from 
> > the edge of the mirror.
> 
> 
> To add something new, I got chips on my first tile tool, 
> which was concrete. In my case, I definitely had small rocks 
> coming off the concrete. Sealing solved this problem. The 
> sides are important to seal as well. Small rocks can fall 
> from the sides onto the glass. I think some of the tiles were 
> also a bit loose and broke chips off the mirror as well. 
> Tiles were better embedded in my later tools.
> 
> As for the the bevel, I have tried a few angles without any 
> effort to quanitiy this. Suffice it to say this is much more 
> problematic with the plate glass that I generally work, and 
> the angle may be much more critical. The pic below shows a 
> surface I have baffled on top of another piece that I have 
> not bevelled at all. Notice the way the lower plate glass 
> chips on the corner.
> I have quantified this and these are a lot bigger and more 
> frequent than what I get with optical borosilicate. For 
> scale, consider that the glass is 6 mm thick (Schmidt 
> corrector plates).
> 
> http://www.canit.se/~dlwebb/catadioptric/310schmidt/corr_col.jpg
> 
> Looking at the upper plate glass, you can sense the angle 
> used, and this has worked very well for me. In terms of the 
> grit size for this bevel (notice, I also work the sides of 
> plate glass because these can also chip, BTW), I use a 
> roughly 200 mm long combination coarse/fine sharpening stone, 
> like this one:
> 
> http://www.soonerstateknives.com/NT-JB6.JPG
> 
> I have never found specs for the grit size for my stone, but 
> similar ones I have encountered specified that they are 
> silicon carbon, just like we use for grinding mirrors. My 
> guess is that the fine side is probably finer than #600, and 
> probably about #1000. I have had/used this tool for many 
> years and it has worked very well for bevelling. My bevels 
> end up nearly polished, and this brings up my final point. 
> Sharpening stones can be found with grits of any sizes, so it 
> is nice to see that when we discuss this, there is mention of 
> the grit size. Look here for instance.
> 
> http://www.fine-tools.com/japwas.htm
> 
> 
> Dominic
> 
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