Re: [ATM] slow polishiing

[Guy Brandenburg <gfbrandenburg@yahoo.com>]

--- Bill Mitchell <astronutski@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thanks Guy,
> I will take more pics tonight and pay more attention
> to where I am. 
> I am using a 133 lpi grating (correction to those I
> have told 150)
> and I *assume* I was inside ROC, I like it there.
> Those were my first shots ever and I was just happy
> to capture
> anything.  I was not measuring, I was just snapping
> pics, I knew
> there was no way I was polished yet, so why bother. 
> I just wanted
> some pics 'for the archives'.  The shape has changed
> slightly since
> then and looks to me like there's a hill forming in
> the very center
> of the inner sphere, just to make things more
> intersting  8^)
> 
> Now, some clarification questions if you don't mind:
> 
> > especially based on the looks of both of the
> images. 
> 
> What do you mean?
What I mean is that it looked to me as if you *had*
finished polishing. I recommend 10 hours for a 6
incher if you are using rouge, but CeO cuts much
faster. 

> > To make things really smooth, try switching over
> to rouge. It's 
> > messy, but it makes for a much finer surface, and
> it goes slower, 
> > so you are less likely to overshoot a perfect
> surface.
> 
> What is this Rouge you speak of?  Is this
> recommended?  Do you use
> it?  Will it bring peace to my life?

Optical rouge is a finer, more uniform grade of the
iron-oxide (aka rust) product that is used for women's
makeup. Willmann-Bell sells it, among other places. I
Recommend that the people in my workshop switch over
to rouge after fully polishing out with the CeO. It
makes for a much, much finer surface. It will *not*
bring peace into your life if you make messes. It
takes a lot of work to get it out of your hands (some
folks use latex medical gloves) and virtually nothing
will get it out of your clothing.

> > Another way to check for polish is to get a
> non-frosted light bulb 
> > (not high wattage) and look at the reflection of
> the filament in 
> > the mirror, against a black background under the
> mirror and in back
> > of the bulb. If it's really polished out, then you
> won't see
> > grayness right next to the filament. 
> 
> Like a typical decorative bulb, those ones that look
> twisted? 
> Something like 20 or 30 watts?

Exactly.
 
> Also, would you recommend I get an 85 lpi grating or
> am I beyond
> that?

I don't think it's necessary, but it wouldn't hurt.
the more lpi, the more accuracy you get, but you also
get more diffraction effects, which can be very
confusing. 

What you really need to download is RonWin.

Guy

=====
Guy  Brandenburg
Washington, DC
My home page:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gfbranden/GFB_Home_Page.html
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