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Ok I'll post it to the group. The first thing is, if your monitor has the
ability to change color settings set the color to 6500K or there about
( I had one monitor that only went down to 7300K so I was stuck with that).
I know that the industry standard for viewing art work (photos) is 5000K
but most RGB monitors don't handle the 5000K color very well and tend to
darken the screen way too much as well.
I have my Display Properties set so the Background is set to "None" and in the Appearance Tab under "Item" the "Color" is set to a neutral grey, I click on the color arrow and then choose "Other" which brings up the "Color" control palette if you don't already have a neutral grey available simply type in "128" in the R, G, and B boxes (for reference Hue is 160 Saturation (Sat) is 0 and Luminance is 120). click OK or Apply. The next thing to do is start Adobe Gamma. I'm going to run through the steps as I need to do them from my home computer running Photoshop 5.0 . The program is in "Photoshop 5.0\Goodies\Calibration\Adobe Gamma.cpl" double click on this and it starts the program. Choose the "Step By Step(Wizard)" setting. the next step asks you to choose the profile to describe your monitor usually it comes up as "sRGB" this is a great cruel joke played on us by Adobe and Microsoft, sRGB is a limited RGB color space that truncates the cyan portions of the image. It was designed by Adobe and Microsoft for web only publication and leaves out a large amount of the detail that should be in the cyan portion of your images. In other words, don't use it. A much richer color space is the "Adobe 1998RGB", when I go to change this in Adobe Gamma I find I'm stuck trying to decipher the abbreviated versions of the file names and I have to choose "adod6522.icm" which is Adobe RGB 6500K White Balance 2.2 Gamma. Next comes the Brightness and Contrast adjustment this is where the question of "black" first starts. If your holding a black card up to the monitor to compare the black in the square please stop it, your comparing Apples to Oranges and your monitor will never stand up to the comparison. all you have to do is adjust the contrast to 100% and then dim the brightness to a point where the center square goes almost but not totally black. next you need to choose your monitors Phosphors, usually the companies manual will tell you in the Specifications what type of phosphors it uses. If not a fairly safe bet for non-Trinitron monitors is the P22-EBU setting. Ok, now comes the hard part the next step usual comes up as a single grey rectangle with a smaller rectangle inside. The outer rectangle has a sort of lined texture to it. You'll also see a choice for "View Single Gamma" checked, unchecked this and your presented with 3 rectangles one each Red, Green and Blue. The trick I was taught was not to focus on these rectangles it'll drive you crazy, I'm lucky in that I'm very near-sighted so I simply take my glasses off, lean back in my chair and the texture becomes a nice blur you can do the same by squinting just enough to blur the texture then adjust the sliders to match as closely as possible. Do the Red first then the Green but when you get to the Blue don't look at the rectangle, instead look at the neutral grey background you created earlier (close any extra windows you might have open) and adjust the Blue slider until the grey looks neutral, it helps to have something like a Kodak 18% grey card next to the monitor for comparison. The next step is for selecting "Hardware WHite Point" this is the color temperature you set your monitor to in the first step. The Next step is "Adjusted White Point" set this to "Same as Hardware" THe next step is the last and it allows you to save your profile you've just created If your monitor seems too dark you can go back and brighten it up now that the program is over. I hope this helps Craig Dan Son wrote: I would like it to go to the group...Im very interested in how this will be done. |