RE: [APML] Good 220 Negative/Slide Meteor Film?

[Jerry Lodriguss <lists4@astropix.com>]

Hi Wade,

Your logic makes sense, a fast speed film would certainly be better, but 
you also seemed concerned about red emission nebulae. You just may not be 
able to do both with the 220 films available today. I suggested pushing 
slower films so you could get the red nebulae, and if you lucked out and 
got a really bright meteor, you would get that too. If you want to try to 
get fainter metoers, you may just have to sacrifice red nebula. Or shoot 
one frame on E200 early in the night of the area with a red sensitive film, 
then the rest of the night with fast film and composite the meteors into 
the red-nebulae image.

Jerry

At 02:38 AM 7/31/2005, you wrote:
>Jerry,
>
>Thanks for your suggestions; however, I believe pushing these slow
>films want help to increase their ability to capture fast meteors.
>A film rated an ISO of 200 still "sees" the meteor at ISO 200.
>During development, if a faint signature was captured, it will
>"brighten" during the push process; however, if it was not recorded
>at all, due to the slowness of the film, no amount of pushing will
>ever render the meteor visible.  This is why it is very important to
>get a true rated fast film, preferably ISO 800 or higher depending
>on your f-stop.  Though, it is possible my logic is wrong.  As an
>example, while taking the Milky Way mosaic two bright meteors
>flashed through the field of view.  If memory serves me correct,
>they were probably both around 0-1 magnitude.  The E200 pushed
>1-stop did not even record a faint echo of a meteor; however, I was
>shooting at F/4.0 which lessened the likelihood of capturing a
>meteor in the first place.
>
>The fastest lens I have is my Pentax 67 75mm F/2.8.  I'll be using
>it wide-open.
>
>Wade
>
>
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