Re: [APML] TP Pre Rinse

["Andrew Schott" <aschott@cfl.rr.com>]

Hmmmm.  More pre-soak contraindications.  Hypered hydrophobia!  Perhaps
water is something that should be left out of the hypered film development
processes.  Can you develop hypered film with just the little crystals that
come in the developer package?   A sand bath?  Maybe gasseous developer like
the hypering process.  Take D-76 and burn it like incense.  Expose the film
to the rising smoke.

I'll be the hypering process was discovered under similar efforts.

Could it be possible your brand new tank was contaminated with something.
I'm thinking mold release and plastic waxes.....   Sometimes it's a good
idea to wash new tanks/reels in hot soapy water to get rid of all the mfgr.
residue.  At least the unhypered sheet worked which may give you some
indications.  You'll have to try again without the presoak.  If you're
getting streaks and flow markings, then something has to be done in either
the agitation or the developer strength directions.  If your developing
times are very short (<3mins.) you'll have a hard time getting rid of
streaks due to the fact that  approx. 20% or more of your time is spent
filling or emptying your tank.  If your development times are long enough to
manage the changeout times, then the agitation needs investigation.  The
first few seconds are critical to film development and smooth images.  It is
essential that the film be covered completely and uniformly by developer in
the first instant of contact.  The quicker you can perform immersion and
agitation, the better.

Have you been able to develop this same batch of hypered film correctly
using other methods?  I'm wondering if there's not some flaw in the hypering
process that may have damaged your emulsion or caused the
streaking/blotching before it was developed.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Janusz" <jjanusz@dc.rr.com>
To: <astro-photo@seds.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 2:05 AM
Subject: Re: [APML] TP Pre Rinse


> Well for what it's worth I ran my test tonight.  I knew better but I
> actually tested two things at the same time, not good for scientific
> accuracy.  The two test parameters were the five minute water pre-rinse
and
> a new Jobo 3010 expert rotary developing tank.
>
> The test was to use the new tank and do all of the other steps as I
normally
> do and add the pre-rinse.  I used one sheet of hypered and one sheet of
> un-hypered 4x5 TP.
>
> Results were a disaster for the hypered sheet.  It was totally ruined with
> dark areas that look like the emulsion ran.  Maybe the water did this as
it
> was introduced to the tank?  The direction of the flow is follows the
> upright tank position, not the horizontal rotary position.  Totally weird.
> The un-hypered sheet was perfect.
>
> If it were not for the fact I used a new un-proven tank I would say that
> pre-soaking is still not the thing to do.  As Kent said below hypered film
> hates water.
>
> At some point I will re-run the test but for now I need my hypered sheets
> for this weekend.
>
> Keep your TP dry mates.........
>
> Jim
>
>
> > Jim:
> > The problem with doing a pre-soak with hypered Tech Pan goes back to the
> fact
> > that hypered TP and moisture/water don't mix; ie. moisture causes
increase
> in
> > base fog level and possible unevenness. This can happen during
> > transportation, storage, in the camera or in a pre-soak. That's why we
use
> N2
> > purges, etc.
> >
> > I tried pre-soaking hypered TP 120 a few years back and the results were
> > terrible.
> >
> > Kent Kirkley
> >
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